Secret paradise beach prison

Yesterday after getting supplies at the Mauna Lani resort village, I hitched to the highway, and then again to mile marker 79. I had seen this oasis of palm trees in the distance before and decided that was the day to find out what it was. No signage, only a turnoff that has been blocked by boulders and a few cars parked there.

The walk is like this. The barbed wire there is part of a barrier around all the trees I saw from the distance. Strange. I wrote down what the place was called and am going to look it up. Its either for a celebrity, a super rich, or perhaps its on a cultural basis that this land is blocked off.

So I get there and... seems I've been here before! A few months into my stay here a girl, Kristi, showed me around several places, including "lone palm" black sand beach. (Internet says its called Ke-awa-iki Beach) What a place. The waves stack the pebbles a lot higher than they do sand, so they break really steep. Then as the water flows back, you can hear all the pebbles clicking against each other as well as the water rushing through the cracks in the stones. Something else.

Got in some water time. Was able to breathe and relax a bit. That's when I enjoy the ocean most, when I can just calm down and move slowly and be aware. I can get a high off that for sure. Purrty fishes and coral. On my way back, I was startled by a sea turtle but I forgave it.

Exploring, I found a dude on a much more secluded beach. He looked like maybe he lived there. Later, on my way back through I explored this random trail behind the beach and came upon him apparently bathing in some weird... oasis in the middle of the a'a lava rock. Endless dry, jagged rocks, then fresh water and trees? I let him be, thinking he lived there. I looked it up and it turns out that is a not widely known spring, which feeds the trees. Too cool. I'll have to go and explore more, but I'll have to find better camping because...

Around 7:30 I returned to the lone palm beach, once it was suitably dark and visitors would have left.

I set myself up last night right below the lone palm. Sounds come from the water, all of the sounds. So many sounds you can hear things that aren't there. What I think must be Venus cast a reflection on the water. I was surprised how much light came from a planet. Clouds wrapped the horizon and overhead I had a perfect view of the milky way. Saw a few shooting stars. Then, I saw it: high-beams a quarter mile away. I'd seen cars all about in the distance, but this one, around the other end of the bay... was apparently on the same path I was on. It started cruising down right after I'd set up. It was dark, so I know it wasn't specially for me. In a hurry I balled my sleeping bag into my tarp, grabbed my slippers, got my unruly backpack on and scurried to just off the main area to a little depression ('puka') behind a lava rock. Just in time and scared kind of shitless. I don't know what goes on down here, or what this place is really about with the weird prison-camp-oasis look going on.

The SUV parked under the palm I had just been set up at and I hid for a bit after the lights went out, before finding my way to a slope that seemed less visible, but still comfortable. Then, the lights came back on. They'd probably seen me moving, I thought -- I used my cell phone for light. They drove off. Finally.

Then, not long after, another pair of lights shine from across the bay. This one was faster and brighter. An ATV with a flashlight. They stopped at the palm and... flashed the light around, and repeatedly up the palm. Did they think I was up there? Or was I mistaken they were looking for me? I think they were. At this point I was incognito as best I could -- my gear was positioned on a slope behind lava, and I was flat in my sleeping bag with my brown tarp folded over me. Such that when they pulled closer, a lot closer and their highlights were on me and I thought for sure the gig was up... they shined the flashlight around on the other shore.... and off they went.

I was pretty terrified and thrilled. I'd evaded some officious beach patrolman I'm sure. I'm glad to camp discretely. Entertained fantasies of being some wilderness soldier who can travel invisibly. Fell asleep.

Woke to a sprinkle of sea water across my face. I was surprised, but occasionally a little lick of a wave would extend up over the plateau I'd found. Not knowing anything about the ocean or if I'd wake up in it, I decided to move again, this time around midnight. I found another somewhat hidden slope and slept till morning.

A long night but very rewarding. I had some time to sit. I found nice private places to chill. And that beach was powerful.. felt exhilarated to be there. And (re)found a new area, one few people know about. But it's tense. Sleeping like that. Nervous.

I hit the road early to another beach, Spencer's, so I could shower, then up to Waimea for coffee. I had 4 rides, with maybe 2 hours wait. But I have new radiolab on my iPod and its starting to sink in to a deeper level: I have nowhere to be. I can take all the time in the world. So there's no reason to be anxious. (I don't let that stop me though.)

The difference between homeless and homed is funny. I mean, I'm camping, right? What makes this not just camping is my plans for the next few days. But I have a job and I could choose to be homed again in a day.

Who am I answering to when I worry about that?

When do the things I've done before "expire," and this becomes who I really am?

I'm looking forward to a prearranged bed in a house tonight. This really nice kid is hosting me and the other 4 ahu lani wwoofers after the show tonight. I'm taking a bus from here to Honoka'a, not hitching. I'm comforted by a schedule, a plan. After that maybe I head down to South Kona and try to swim with dolphins finally. Stay in a hostel one night. And visit my favorite place on the island, Kealakekua Bay.

Gear has been a pain. I'm at capacity, so getting at things can be a hassle. It can be embarrassing in a Starbucks, looking for my powercord. I have items everyone has, but it's context: No one else has has their toothbrush and 2 water bottles and a zip log bag of toiletries out at Starbucks while getting their computer cord. Or making a PB+J sandwich along the highway. Or shaving at the beach park shower. You have to take certain private things and make them public. All of my private is in a bag next to me.

In exchange, there are supremely private moments out on the coast. Moments when I can define a beautiful world in terms I understand.

My mom told me maybe I'd get more rides if I got a haircut. So today, I've posted a picture of the beach.

haha I kid.. love you mom. =)